Our nails are repeatedly subjected to damage from the wear-and-tear of everyday activity, making them prone to weakening, breaking, and ridging. For those of us with less-than-perfect nails, their visibility can be quite embarrassing, but there is no need to concede to a lifetime of nail dissatisfaction. Dr. Zoe Draelos, Consulting Professor of Duke University School of Medicine’s Department of Dermatology, presented her expert tips on nail care at the 2009 American Academy of Dermatology’s summer meeting in Boston. With her permission, we are posting her advice to help YOU solve the following common nail complaints:
What can I do about…
…brittle nails? Brittle nails are the most common nail problem. Brittle nails can be caused by under- and over-hydration. The normal nail consists of 16% water, which is maintained within the nail plate. Too little moisture leads to dry nails that crack, while too much moisture softens the nail and leads to increased nail fracture and tearing. In addition, many of the agents we encounter on a daily basis – household and kitchen cleaners, nail polish remover, and triclosan (an ingredient in waterless hand sanitizers) – damage the nail plate and dehydrate our nails.
There are many ways to treat this condition:
- Nail hardeners: Many products claim to have nail-hardening capabilities. However, you should be wary of products that contain formaldehyde; although this ingredient makes nails harder, it also makes them more brittle. One product to try is Sally Hansen Triple Strong Advanced Nail Fortifier.
- Proper cleansing technique: Avoiding dehydration is a preventative method to avoiding brittle nails. You can do this by protecting your nails from harmful chemicals and over-washing. When using chemicals that strip your nails of moisture, you should wear gloves for protection. You should also avoid washing your nails directly every time you wash your hands. It is recommended that you use a moisturizing liquid cleanser (even a moisturizing body wash will work!), preferably one that is pH balanced.
- Diet: In addition to good overall general health, protein and biotin intake are important for healthy nails. One of the best (and most convenient!) source of biotin is egg whites.
- Urea: Urea is an ingredient that increases the water binding capability of your nail. A moisturizer with urea works in two ways: (1) It decreases the amount of water that is lost from the nail and (2) It increases the amount of water that your nail can hold. However, too much urea can actually overhydrate your nail, leading to soft nails that are prone to breakage. To avoid this, choose a moisturizer with a urea concentration of 5-20% and apply it only twice a day.
- Lactic acid: Lactic acid is another ingredient that increases the water binding capability of your nail. Because it also moisturizes (and can subsequently overhydrate), you want to be careful to avoid overapplication. Choose a concentration of 5-10% and apply only twice a day.
…soft nails? As mentioned above, soft nails are caused by overhydration. You can treat soft nails with nail hardeners, but be wary of nail hardeners with formaldehyde, which can lead to brittle nails. You can also keep them polished, as nail polish thickens the nail plate and prevents overhydration. If you take this route, be sure not to change your nail polish too frequently, as nail polish remover is a dehydrator, which can ultimately lead to brittle nails.
…onycholysis? Onycholysis is a fancy word which means that the nail plate splits from the nail bed. It is most commonly due to trauma (such as when you accidentally smack your hand against a hard surface, or when you catch your fingers in a door). To rectify this condition, you should trim the nail plate as short as possible. Weird as it sounds, it also helps to put super glue underneath the nail plate. This will decrease the risk of your nail plate being pulled further apart from the nail bed during everyday activities.
…onychoschizia? Another fancy word, this time referring to “splitting nails”. Onychoschizia can be prevented by trimming your nails with a flat edge that is perpendicular to the nail plate. Always use a new, sharp nail clipper, and apply three coats of nail polish for extra protection (replace once a week, but do not bother to remove the old polish).
…thick nails? Thick nails can be the end result of a fungal infection, trauma, degenerative joint disease, rheumatic arthritis, and psoriatic arthritis, among other things. The best way to treat thick nails is to follow the following bedtime regimen: Soak your nails in water, cover with 40% urea cream, wrap with Saran wrap overnight, and remove the nail debris in the morning. Repeat this until your nails are no longer thick.
…slow-growing nails? Slow nail growth can be due to dietary deficiency. In these cases, 2.5 mg of biotin for 3 months can help. Nail prostheses may help because they protect the nail and allow for optimal growth, while providing the length you desire in a timely fashion. Overuse of prostheses, however, can lead to nail weakning with prolonged use.
…nail ridging? Nail ridging is a characteristic that develops with age. The aging nail matrix is composed of an abnormal clone of cells producing a poor quality nail. These nails contain ridges that run longitudinal to the nail plate. Besides being a cosmetic issue, nail ridging can lead to increased nail breakage. The best way to treat this condition is with nail filing, which smoothes the ridges to blend into the rest of the nail. Three files should be utilized: a coarse file initially to remove the ridge, a fine file to smooth the ridge into the nail plate, and finally a smooth file to shine the nail plate.
…discolored nails? Nail discoloration can be caused by age, food, tobacco products, and nail polish. If the color is only on the nail plate’s surface, it can be removed with nail polish remover. If this does not work, buffing can be utilized to remove the top of the nail, while retaining shine. An alternative, chemical solution is bleaching, which whitens the nail.
…broken nails? Broken nails are a fact of life. They are especially prone to occur when we were growing our nails out for a special occasion and just about to polish them! Sometimes, removing the broken nail can be incredibly painful. In these instances, it is best to reattach the nail until new growth occurs and removal is possible. One creative method to repair broken nails is to use fibered paper. What common item contains fibered paper? The surprising answer is tea bags! To utilize this method: put a layer of clear, fibered nail polish on the broken nail, cut a tea bag to fit over the break, paint several layers of clear nail polish in order to embed the tea bag within the nail polish, and allow to dry.
To find out more about Dr. Zoe Draelos, please visit her website at zoedraelos.com.