Cosmeceuticals, which represent a marriage between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, are beauty aids that work like prescription drugs and provide new ways to treat aging skin. Like cosmetics, cosmeceuticals are topically applied, but they contain ingredients that influence the biological function of the skin. Cosmeceuticals improve appearance, but they do so by delivering nutrients necessary for healthy skin. Some of these anti-aging ingredients are discussed, including those novel and fresh on the market, and those tried, tested and true.
ALPHA HYDROXY ACID (AHA): This anti-aging ingredient was one of the first to hit the market. It promotes exfoliation of the skin, removing the dead skin cells that collect on the skin surface to give it a dull appearance. Commonly found forms of AHA include glycolic acid and lactic acid. They help reduce the appearance of skin wrinkling, even out skin tone and soften and smooth the skin. In addition, lactic acid functions as a humectant, or skin conditioning agent. Steps should be taken to use sunscreen and sun protection when also using products containing AHA as it can cause increased sun sensitivity.
RETINOL (VITAMIN A): Another high profile anti-aging product, retinol is a naturally occurring form of vitamin A. Retinol helps reduce the appearance of sun-damaged and aging skin by reducing wrinkles, fading brown spots and smoothing surface roughness. It has been suggested to help build collagen and elastin fibers within the skin. It also has a powerful exfoliating capability. Since retinol may increase sun sensitivity it is advised that sun protection be used in conjunction with this ingredient. Of note, retinol has also been used in other forms, including tretinoin and isotretinoin for treatment of acne.
NEW ON THE MARKET:
SIRTUINS & REVERATROL: Sirtuins are protein enzymes that help to rev up the cell damage repair system, thus repairing damaged DNA in the skin (such as occurs from UV exposure). Reveratrol is a compound found in grapes and red wines. It has a related mechanism of action and is found to activate sirtuins.
SPIN TRAP (PHENYL BUTYL NITRONE): Phenyl butyl nitrone was developed by researchers who wanted to be able to isolate free radicals in petri dishes. Spin trap functions as an antioxidant, but not in the traditional manner. Instead of destroying free radicals, it restores balance to unstable molecules before they damage our skin (e.g. via cancer and aging).
ASTAXANTHIN: Astaxanthin is a carotenoid and antioxidant. When tested against common antioxidants, astaxanthin demonstrated exceptional performance in combating singlet oxygen, which directly damages biological lipids, proteins, and DNA. A clinical research study by Dr. Debasis Bagchi at Creighton University demonstrated that astaxanthin can eliminate free radicals 6,000 times more effectively than vitamin C, 800 times more than CoQ10, 550 times more than vitamin E and green tea, 75 times more than alpha lipoic acid, and 20 times more than beta-carotene.
COENZYME Q10: Q10 is a coenzyme that is found naturally in the skin to help defend it against aging. As we age, the level of natural Q10 begins to decrease and skin loses the ability to naturally regain its elasticity and firmness. Coenzyme Q10 enhances the skin’s unique ability to minimize the impacts of aging, making skin firmer, smoother, and more toned. Promising preliminary research indicates coenzyme Q10 is an effective antioxidant that repairs sun-damaged skin, energizes new cell growth, possesses firming properties, and smooths skin.
COPPER PEPTIDES: Promising preliminary research demonstrates qualities that include firming, enhancement of the skin’s protective ability, antioxidant properties, healing properties, stimulation of collagen formation, improvement of the skin’s elasticity, and promotion of elastin production.
References:
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- Lupo MP. Peptides for Facial Skin Aging. Simplified Facial Rejuvenation. Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 2008.