Shopping for cosmetics is no easy feat. Unless you are armed with recommendations, it can be virtually impossible to distinguish one product from another. Furthermore, deciphering the product claims can be both challenging and frustrating. After reading this article, you should better understand the jargon of product labels. However, you will also learn that it can be difficult to interpret what those definitions truly mean.
Ten commonly encountered product claims:
- Hypoallergenic: Since hypo means “less than” and allergenic means “causing an allergy”, something that is hypoallergenic is less likely to cause an allergic reaction. This is important for people with sensitive skin.
- Non-comedogenic: Products with this designation should not clog pores and are therefore less likely to cause whiteheads and blackheads. This is important for people with acne and for people who tend to break out.
- Fragrance-free: Contrary to popular belief, fragrance-free does not always mean that the product contains no fragrant ingredients. It can also mean that ingredients have been added to mask the natural fragrance, causing the product to be unscented. This is important for people with fragrance-sensitive skin.
- Natural: Natural is a vague claim that tells you very little. It is important to know that natural does not equal safe. In fact, natural ingredients may have more variability than synthetic ingredients, which are concocted in a more standardized fashion.
- Organic: The U.S. Department of Agriculture has specific labeling rules based on what percent of product ingredients are organic. Products labeled as “100% organic” contain all organic ingredients. “Organic” products contain at least 95% organic ingredients. Products with at least 70% organic ingredients are designated as “Made with organic ingredients”. However, these rules only apply to products that claim to meet USDA organic standards. Because products can have the word organic in their name without containing any organic ingredients, it is important to read the ingredient list to be certain.
- Clinically proven: This tells you that the manufacturer has tested the product to substantiate a specific claim. Because testing is not standardized or regulated by federal guidelines, it can be difficult to trust what has been proven.
- Dermatologist-tested: This means exactly what it says: this product was tested by a dermatologist. It does not tell you how many dermatologists tested the product, nor does it tell you whether their reaction was favorable.
- Decreases the appearance of wrinkles: Because the easiest wrinkles to fix are caused by dehydrated skin, applying moisture leaves the skin temporarily smooth, thus masking some wrinkles for a short time.
- Brightening: Our skin reflects light, and this process can be enhanced by proteins and pigments. Certain proteins form a thin film over the skin, evening out the surface and retaining water, causing the skin to appear more “radiant”. Light-reflective pigments, like mica, improve the reflection of light and cause the skin to appear “brighter”.
- Broad spectrum: Last, but not least, this may be the most clear-cut definition of the list. It is most often seen on sunscreens and means that the product protects against both UVA and UVB rays.
What do these claims tell us about the product?
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration treats cosmetic products very differently from drugs. The process underlying cosmetic approval is much laxer and leads to less stringent regulation. You can read the nitty-gritty regarding the FDA’s review of cosmetic products here, but the take-home points are:
- Cosmetics do not have to undergo FDA premarket testing to assess safety; this responsibility falls upon the manufacturer, who defines and performs product testing independently. This leads to obvious discrepancies in testing from manufacturer to manufacturer.
- Cosmetic products and ingredients, with the exception of color additives, do not have to undergo FDA approval before their release into the market.
- The actual ingredients utilized in cosmetic products are reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, who, since its inception, has only reviewed a fraction of currently utilized ingredients.
- If untested ingredients are utilized in a marketed product, the manufacturer must add a safety warning to the final product stating as such.
- Product labeling laws demand that all ingredients, in concentrations greater than 1%, are appropriately listed. These ingredients appear in order of concentration (from greatest to least). Of note, fragrances are exempt from inclusion.
- Finally, and perhaps most important for consumers, is that advertising claims do not have to be approved before the product is marketed.
No wonder it is difficult to interpret product labels! For example, even if a product states that it is hypoallergenic, since there is no standardized definition for this term, it can mean very different things from product to product. Terms such as clinically proven and non-comedogenic are equally difficult to interpret because each manufacturer is conducting their own testing.
So what is a smart consumer to do?
First, don’t panic. Although manufacturers can get somewhat creative when describing their product, they cannot outright lie. Second, be informed! Ask your dermatologist what specific products he or she recommends. Talk to your friends and colleagues about what products have worked for them. If you are interested in knowing more about a specific ingredient, Paula Begoun’s website has a superb cosmetic ingredient dictionary. If you have safety concerns, visit the Environmental Working Group’s cosmetic database.
Hopefully your next trip to the cosmetic aisle won’t be quite so confusing!
REFERENCES:
Draelos ZD. The cosmeceutical realm. Clinics in Dermatology. 2008 Nov-Dec;26(6):627-632.
FDA Authority Over Cosmetics. http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/GuidanceComplianceRegulatoryInformation/ucm074162.htm
Gao XH, Zhang L, Wei H, Chen HD. Efficacy and safety of innovative cosmeceuticals. Clinics in Dermatology. 2008 July-Aug;26(4):367-374.
Newburger AE. Cosmeceuticals: myths and misconceptions. Clinics in Dermatology. 2009 Sept-Oct;27(5):446-452.